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  • SilverSurfer17
    replied
    I mean you guys are suppose to be experts whats the limits for voltage amperage to coils I know with Tesla coils more voltage amperage the better the coil is tuned to the caps the better it performs and I know it has to be true with MD because they have stuff like those two boxes that detect feet into the ground instead of inches so whats the limit in these handhelds traces on the boards caps resistors transistors all of the above I assume all that can be made stronger and Im not worried about battery size

    Leave a comment:


  • SilverSurfer17
    replied
    I’d like to know if there is a way to put leds in a row on the left side that’s red and green ones on the right side like the graph on the screen for iron or precious metals so you know with lights blaring you in the face instead of having to look at the screen I want to be able to crank the volume to the point it hurts my ears I’d like to be able to make 24volt 18650 batteries for it I’d like it to be able to be mounted different ways like a coil off the back of a e scooter and mount the unit on the bars and build a big coil so I can ride a mile a hour and pick up signals and ignore garbage signals and I might be from another planet but from what I’ve seen I know all that can be done

    Leave a comment:


  • SilverSurfer17
    replied
    Also when I asked that what I was trying to figure out was how to get more voltage and amperage to the coils and figured I’d start from what had the lowest voltage rating not knowing what a mosfet does I’ve touched thousands of them but had no idea what they did besides burn the crap out you if you touch one I’ll learn on my own I guess I’ll just sit back and lurk instead of being insulted because I will defend myself and I will hurt some feelings and get booted even if anyone can just make another account

    Leave a comment:


  • SilverSurfer17
    replied
    I wanted to overclock the processor they can be ran way faster and still be stable as for the reasoning I have no idea I figured a faster detector so I can walk faster with it I guess it?s called bounce back and like I stated that the fool from another planet didn?t read I?ve never picked up a detector or invented a circuit I?ve stuffed some boards using a built board as a model and ran thousands through a wave soldering machine that?s it but I could give 2 squats if I fry the chip putting a 80hrz crystal change a resistor to get 6v and mess with the baud rate or even build a separate timing circuit I?m building this to learn what happens when I do this or that to it

    Leave a comment:


  • 6666
    replied
    Originally posted by godigit1 View Post
    Hi 6666,
    Me too with the Vlf coils.
    .
    I've noticed one thing that may help with voodoo at first observation with a homebuilt concentric.
    Don't lock down the bucking wire until you monitor tp 12 and make the final adjustment to tp12) the disc Sync with no target present.

    I had balanced as best as I could on a signal geny and Disc was working but not on zero on the scope. Seems like Tp 12 is a good place to do a final tweak to your coil as I only barley had to move my balance wire to 0 out.

    Merry Christmas to you and all as well

    Hi GD, I have found this thread to have some good info and tips, I think my plan will be 10 inch TX, 5 inch RX and bucking, will try and 3D print a duel RX and bucking former as per dbanner tip.

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    Originally posted by Qiaozhi View Post
    Setting up PWM is more complicated than with Arduino, which is extremely simple but more limited.

    With the PIC18F4520 you need to set some bits in the CCPxCON register, and also load the PR2 register to define the PWM period.
    The equation is: PWM Period = [(PR2) + 1] ? 4 ? TOSC ? (TMR2 Prescale Value)
    There are two PWM outputs, and they both use Timer 2.

    From the datasheet:
    15.4.4
    SETUP FOR PWM OPERATION

    The following steps should be taken when configuring
    the CCP module for PWM operation:

    1. Set the PWM period by writing to the PR2 register.
    2. Set the PWM duty cycle by writing to the CCPRxL register and CCPxCON<5:4> bits.
    3. Make the CCPx pin an output by clearing the appropriate TRIS bit.
    4. Set the TMR2 prescale value, then enable Timer2 by writing to T2CON.
    5. Configure the CCPx module for PWM operation.
    It's a start!
    I will have to read datasheet.

    Leave a comment:


  • godigit1
    replied
    Originally posted by 6666 View Post
    Easy guys, George has provided us a new experimental project, it will take some time to have a working unit and to experiment to see how it performs, I hope to finish mine in January, but then I have to make a coil for it, so vlf coils are new for me as I am a pi guy so I am finding it interesting making something new, have a good Xmas.
    Hi 6666,
    Me too with the Vlf coils.
    .
    I've noticed one thing that may help with voodoo at first observation with a homebuilt concentric.
    Don't lock down the bucking wire until you monitor tp 12 and make the final adjustment to tp12) the disc Sync with no target present.

    I had balanced as best as I could on a signal geny and Disc was working but not on zero on the scope. Seems like Tp 12 is a good place to do a final tweak to your coil as I only barley had to move my balance wire to 0 out.

    Merry Christmas to you and all as well

    Leave a comment:


  • ionut_mtb
    replied
    Originally posted by Qiaozhi View Post
    You are incorrect in your assumptions.
    Voodoo has been built and tested outside in the real world, and it really works. The purpose of the project is to demonstrate true ferrous / non-ferrous discrimination. There is always room for further development, in which (as you can see) others are willing to participate. Before you can have an opinion (and not an assumption) you must read the book, and possibly then construct the project yourself. You may then have better thoughts on how to make improvements.

    By the way, I did not write the book to make money. I simply wanted to get the technical information into print before anyone claimed the idea and tried to get it patented, and also because I found it an interesting and enjoyable experience to publish a technical book on my own. There are much easier ways to make money than writing technical books, believe me.

    On the other hand, I have also built and tested Felezjoo, and was less than impressed. There are claims that it works by some principle patented by Minelab, which is not true. You can easily determine that by examining the TX waveform with an oscilloscope. Also, it relies on target conductivity to attempt to eliminate iron which will never give anywhere near accurate ferrous rejection.
    I apologize, maybe my words were exaggerated. i don’t compare felezjoo with voodoo, i understand how discrimination is working on both. i just asked lamoiz about his problems with felezjoo.
    I told you that i want to buy the book, and build voodoo but first i want to see one working unit, with doable coil.

    Leave a comment:


  • Qiaozhi
    replied
    Originally posted by ivconic View Post
    I am sure it can be done easy on the same board, with just few small corrections.
    RA4 should provide PWM (if possible, if not; cut existing track, disengage RA4, use another PWM pin and piece of wire... simply will do).
    PWM to connect to NE555 and "bias" its threshold.
    RA4 can even stay there and still switch the audio.
    Few different solutions on the same board, without much of a changes.
    Without me reading the PIC datasheet, a question: are there any free PWM pins?
    Setting up PWM is more complicated than with Arduino, which is extremely simple but more limited.

    With the PIC18F4520 you need to set some bits in the CCPxCON register, and also load the PR2 register to define the PWM period.
    The equation is: PWM Period = [(PR2) + 1] • 4 • TOSC • (TMR2 Prescale Value)
    There are two PWM outputs, and they both use Timer 2.

    From the datasheet:
    15.4.4
    SETUP FOR PWM OPERATION

    The following steps should be taken when configuring
    the CCP module for PWM operation:

    1. Set the PWM period by writing to the PR2 register.
    2. Set the PWM duty cycle by writing to the CCPRxL register and CCPxCON<5:4> bits.
    3. Make the CCPx pin an output by clearing the appropriate TRIS bit.
    4. Set the TMR2 prescale value, then enable Timer2 by writing to T2CON.
    5. Configure the CCPx module for PWM operation.

    Leave a comment:


  • lamoiz
    replied
    Originally posted by ivconic View Post
    Truth, usually i would literally spit on video demonstration as a "proof" of performances.
    But if the video came from Qiaozhi; i would watch it with a great attention.
    Because you trust in one who made a video and his credibility.
    So far Q. earned HUGE credibility in my eyes.
    So it is quite different story if he made and posted video.
    ...
    I also don't think that FelezJoo is most happy solution for the beaches and wet sand.
    But it performs hell good in forests and "clean" soil, when you walk and search for coincidental but deep targets.
    Enough me to say that it outperforms the Deus . Twice the depth than Deus with largest coil, in mentioned conditions.

    I agree with you .. for all that.

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    Originally posted by lamoiz View Post
    for a few years, there is only that ..video .. proof ... video..fake..video true ... but the subject here is to advance a new concept project .. otherwise, yes it is true that a video alluring attracts the customer.
    for my felez, it was unusable at the beach, totally unstable on wet sand. so maybe I had badly built the coil ... but in my garden it worked very well ..
    you are right about the voodoo audio, a change in the amplitude or tone of the signal would be good.
    Truth, usually i would literally spit on video demonstration as a "proof" of performances.
    But if the video came from Qiaozhi; i would watch it with a great attention.
    Because you trust in one who made a video and his credibility.
    So far Q. earned HUGE credibility in my eyes.
    So it is quite different story if he made and posted video.
    ...
    I also don't think that FelezJoo is most happy solution for the beaches and wet sand.
    But it performs hell good in forests and "clean" soil, when you walk and search for coincidental but deep targets.
    Enough me to say that it outperforms the Deus . Twice the depth than Deus with largest coil, in mentioned conditions.

    Leave a comment:


  • lamoiz
    replied
    Originally posted by ivconic View Post
    Actually, same as ionut_mtb; i was confused too about absence of any demo video from the beginning.
    Book was ready and advertised, some story begun and evolved, few interesting claims were made... so logically man would expect at least short video.
    I think i even asked about video at the beginning of this topic.
    Truth is; if i saw the video before: i wouldn't rush to make pcbs and spend my time, money and energy on this.
    Most certainly i would buy a book tough, no doubts about that. Book is valuable piece of work and i salute it.
    But i would not rush into making two pcbs (one for me and another for a friend who was interested too).
    Because i would notice it's audio and i would place remarks much sooner.
    ...
    As for FelezJoo, i made dozen so far. Even now i have one. It is state of the art project. Considering what's all done with simple Atmega328P and how it performs in most common conditions.
    Maybe it is nothing new and "revolutionary"; but certainly is worth to be made. And horrible cheap to invest, comparing to Voodoo.
    I worked with it in forests too, with 39cm mono coil. It is hell deep and i had incredible finds with it.
    Please let us not start here comparisons and spoil this topic more. Apples and pears.
    FelezJoo is state of the art, finished project and when coil is done properly; it is hell of a detector.
    ...
    Voodoo; book is splendid. I warmly suggest it to everyone to buy it. Lot of things to learn and perfect reminder. Also very original and interesting idea (me personally haven't heard anything similar so far).
    Voodoo project to build; hmmmmmm... not finished project.
    Have potentials and can be made better.
    I already listed my remarks earlier, but most important is to change the audio behavior.
    for a few years, there is only that ..video .. proof ... video..fake..video true ... but the subject here is to advance a new concept project .. otherwise, yes it is true that a video alluring attracts the customer.
    for my felez, it was unusable at the beach, totally unstable on wet sand. so maybe I had badly built the coil ... but in my garden it worked very well ..
    you are right about the voodoo audio, a change in the amplitude or tone of the signal would be good.

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    Speaking of motion mode... no matter if we speak of PI or VLF I/B...
    Detector ALWAYS looks "deeper" when in motion mode.
    But once you try it in non motion mode; you see the naked truth.
    What you gain in non motion mode; is the true performance.
    But depth is last thing to worry about here.
    Quality of Voodoo should be fast sampling on the first place.
    Kind of a discrimination on second place.
    I think Q. did very good job towards that here.
    But main point here is that such PI simply will not do in motion mode.
    With early sampling you look up for small items in soil, not for tanks and cannons.
    Combining early sampling, motion mode and simplest possible binary audio... sorry to say: it is total miss.
    What i would like to see at Voodoo is this:


    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    I am sure it can be done easy on the same board, with just few small corrections.
    RA4 should provide PWM (if possible, if not; cut existing track, disengage RA4, use another PWM pin and piece of wire... simply will do).
    PWM to connect to NE555 and "bias" its threshold.
    RA4 can even stay there and still switch the audio.
    Few different solutions on the same board, without much of a changes.
    Without me reading the PIC datasheet, a question: are there any free PWM pins?

    Leave a comment:


  • ivconic
    replied
    Actually, same as ionut_mtb; i was confused too about absence of any demo video from the beginning.
    Book was ready and advertised, some story begun and evolved, few interesting claims were made... so logically man would expect at least short video.
    I think i even asked about video at the beginning of this topic.
    Truth is; if i saw the video before: i wouldn't rush to make pcbs and spend my time, money and energy on this.
    Most certainly i would buy a book tough, no doubts about that. Book is valuable piece of work and i salute it.
    But i would not rush into making two pcbs (one for me and another for a friend who was interested too).
    Because i would notice it's audio and i would place remarks much sooner.
    ...
    As for FelezJoo, i made dozen so far. Even now i have one. It is state of the art project. Considering what's all done with simple Atmega328P and how it performs in most common conditions.
    Maybe it is nothing new and "revolutionary"; but certainly is worth to be made. And horrible cheap to invest, comparing to Voodoo.
    I worked with it in forests too, with 39cm mono coil. It is hell deep and i had incredible finds with it.
    Please let us not start here comparisons and spoil this topic more. Apples and pears.
    FelezJoo is state of the art, finished project and when coil is done properly; it is hell of a detector.
    ...
    Voodoo; book is splendid. I warmly suggest it to everyone to buy it. Lot of things to learn and perfect reminder. Also very original and interesting idea (me personally haven't heard anything similar so far).
    Voodoo project to build; hmmmmmm... not finished project.
    Have potentials and can be made better.
    I already listed my remarks earlier, but most important is to change the audio behavior.

    Leave a comment:

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