Originally posted by SilverSurfer17
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If you are using any mains derived power supply, it must be rated as SELV (Safety or Separated Extra Low Voltage) where the output voltage is totally isolated from the input voltage by means of an isolating transformer. None of the wall warts I have meet this criteria so are not suitable for use. A car battery will give you 12V at up to several hundred amps which could give rise to catastrophic failure if you do not include a current limiting device in your circuit. Best bet is to use 10 X 18650's in a battery holder with short circuit protection. Do not solder them together. Alternatively, use your proposed 4s LIPO and dropdown buck converter which you will be able to reuse in your completed project, but please still incorporate short circuit protection as described by waltr as a shorted LIPO can cause fire and explosion. Make sure you purchase a known brand and not an unbranded cell as these can be unreliable
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Your DISC sample appears to be in the wrong place. It should be sampling on the ringing part of the waveform after the flyback.Originally posted by ionut_mtb View PostCame up with these waveforms from Mr DFB setup, now i'm waiting for the uA meter.
Not sure if i need dumping for the Rx or if the sample is in the correct position. Thing is that the sample delay is at max on the right side (100k delay pot max resistance, i tried put 20k series but nothing change)
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Im also not just using it for my detector. I don't know if you caught my first posts. But I'm building a EV. That i want to be able to mount a bunch of coils on. So i want to be able to charge my phone and gps. The EV will be ran on 72v and i want to keep it separate from my other electronics.
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Originally posted by SilverSurfer17 View PostIll just order the 4s and the converter and isolate it from the house ground no biggie i can move around with the detector then anyway ok thank you very much guys much appreciated
you have to use a power supply not connected to your house at all, unless you dont use the neutral or ground, when you have a house current any extra that the device is not using flows back through the neutral wire, back to the utility, and the neutral wire is connected to ground at the service panel.
So you can have current flowing in reverse through your neutral wire into your ground, that is why us electricians always make sure the breaker is turned off before we work on a circuit,In our line of work, the neutral wire is also called a common wire, its named common because its the common test point for all circuits since all neutrals are connected in a house, and neutral gets connected to ground, so actually ground can basically be called a common wire
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Originally posted by SilverSurfer17 View PostOk i will hunt down a 40 watt bulb. Ill order the bms also and the converter.
this is how to build a house supply current limiter, for just a few dollars,the plug on the right side of picture is just a standard 2 socket you use in a wall. the light buld could be 20 watt night light, and the light socket is the clay one that gets used in closets, 20 watt still be to much in a MD circuit
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Not to show my age... but I remember when our automobile electrical systems was 6V, POSITIVE ground!Originally posted by Matt_Rowe View Posttheres actually quite a few instances especially in the marine industry and boating where Positive grounded systems are the norm. Also especially on some vehicles.
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Its fairly easy if you have a Pmos, ground is the negative battery plate,
if you have a Nmos ground is positive battery plate.
If you have a a virtual ground (or virtual earth) then thats a little different,
usually made from a couple of resisters or an op amp with the node as ground.
Whats being proposed with the current limiting is a simple 12 volt globe in series with the load powered from the 12 volt side of the power supply which is isolated from the mains.
I just use an 8 pack of nicads.
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