Hi ivconic,
For you, experienced guy in metal detectors, is very strange to write for the problems with RX amplifier for this very simple detector. It is easy to see with oscilloscope if the signals on the output the RX amplifier stage haves some problems. In this project, the author make attempt to move all problems to the software, but the speed and the properties of used microprocessor haven't enough power for producing of really good results. But, the attempts continue so many years....
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Very dissatisfied I wrote an official complaint to Aliexpress.
After a few days, I received a reply that "I am not right and that my complaint is rejected"... !??
So much for how Aliexpress protects its customers.
A gang of thieves, liars and robbers! Generally speaking.
There are also positive examples, of course, but they are rarer.
This is a link for a damn thief, remember this seller well and NEVER BUY ANYTHING from that scumbag!
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...%21%211%210%21Leave a comment:
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I had the pcb, I had most of the materials.
It's boring so I amused myself by making another one.
In principle, it works immediately.
But this time this one doesn't work well enough.
Because I don't have the original LF357.
And I don't trust buying it from local sellers.
I ordered 10 pieces from Aliexpress and all 10 are total fakes!
Not only are they not LF357; the question is, what are they anyway?
I put DIL sockets on both Pulse Star 2 and FelezJoo PI and tested all 10 pieces of "LF357".
Both detectors remained totally "dead" with them!
Not that they work badly - but they don't work at all!
So I temporarily put LF351 on this FelezJoo PI, I don't have any better alternative at the moment.
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What is the diameter of the wire used for a 50cm square reel and a 1x1m reel? The reel I'm using is a spider type and uses 0.8mm wire, and it works fine, but I want to know what wire to use for the others. I understand that for 40 to 60cm reels, 0.8mm wire is correct, but for 1x1m reels, it's 1mm or 1.2mm, but I'm not sure if that's right.Leave a comment:
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I forgot to mention that I'm doing this because I'm running out of money and someone suggested I sell it to recoup my investment. I'm still figuring out the price since I'm not very good at calculating it. What do you think would be the best price?
I'm thinking of selling it with a 50x50cm coil; I'm not sure if that's the right size.
And what about the tests? As I said, I buried a 355ml can at a depth of 70cm and it detects it, even with a sensitivity of 10. I also buried a coin at a depth of 22cm and it detects it with my 60cm coil. Finally, I also adjusted or added more margin to the coil, so I can use different coils without getting a coil error.Leave a comment:
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I'm thinking of selling the full version of the Detector here where I'm from. I'm currently working on the enclosure, but I'm not sure whether to make it myself since I have a 3D printer, or buy them pre-made.
What do you suggest?
Speaking of the topic, when I was editing the program, I made several versions. One surprised me with its live test results, but it was unstable. Another version, as I mentioned, corrected quite a few defects, but as I said, I need to do more testing; it's not ready yet, which is why I said it's just a prototype.
To clarify, this isn't the final version; I'm still working on it. Could someone suggest using 18650 rechargeable batteries to make an 18V version?
There's a version I'm working on that's for sale, as it has some improvements: it's more stable, has greater depth of field, and better discrimination, among other things.
One thing: if you want the complete Felezjoo version for sale, I don't plan to give it away unless I have a percentage of it, since, as I said, it cost me quite a bit to correct all the errors because the complete Hex file is useless.Leave a comment:
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You can share the source code. [email protected]Originally posted by sabios View PostLeave a comment:
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Well, I'll tell you that I'm currently planning some changes. They're small, but in theory, according to some calculations, they should provide better discrimination, stability, and a bit more depth. But I need to do some testing as soon as I have the parts.
Another thing: I used version 3.35 full as a base, but as some have mentioned, when I installed it and did some tests, it was very unstable, and the ground file was just there in name; it didn't do anything. That's why I made some changes—quite a few, actually—but I didn't want to change the initial presentation or the key programmer's name; I think that would be in bad taste.
As I said, I'll upload more videos as soon as I can, but more comprehensive ones.Leave a comment:
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Wise ones! Good job, I don't know anything about programming, but it's great that you solved it. Did you make any changes to the circuit?Leave a comment:
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This is a video about the metal detector I made. I should clarify that it's a prototype since I haven't received the new parts to build it yet.
I'll upload a longer video as soon as I can.
By the way, I'm only using 13 for sensitivity, but it detects the can even at 10.
I seem to have resolved the problems I was having, like the instability and a few others, but I'll do more testing as soon as the new parts arrive.Leave a comment:
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Today I did a test: I buried a can of tuna 50cm deep with a 50cm coil of 380uH capacitor, and it detected it very well.
I'm not sure if the depth reading is correct, but it seems fine. I did have to make some changes to the hex file because here in Mexico, where I'm from, it was always marking rocks as FE (Features of Light). But with the changes, it works well. Of course, I still need to do more testing.
But I have to say that, after correcting a few errors, it's very good and very stable.Leave a comment:
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