A common problem encountered with charactor LCDs is a difference
in initialization times. Certain brand LCDs are faster than others.
The way to over come this is to write a delay in the processor code. On power up the microcontroller puases for say a 1 second before
sending any data to the LCD. This allows the LCD time to initialize it's registers. On certain brands this may only take 200th of a second on others much more. The flood of cheap china LCDs, I have noticed this problems more and more.
For you project builder you have no way of changing the closed source code. Only the project developer can do this. So you need to request the developer modify the code with longer delay (1 second) at the begining of the program. Or keep swapping LCDs until you get a fast one.
Add: To see if this is the problem add a seperate power switch to the LCD. Turn the power on to the LCD first , wait a couple of seconds
and then power up the detector.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Delta Pulse
Collapse
X
-
Hi OrbitOriginally posted by Orbit View Postwhether there are ways to work with lcd models WH1602b (Winstar) ? With a change on-board or ?
You are essentially asking the same question that I have posted on the Thunting forum just over two months ago. The question is whether it is possible to rectify the problem experienced by many experimenters/DIY'ers out there who have built the Delta Pulse 2 and obtained garbled "running" characters on the top row of their LCD. In other words, is there some type of modification that one could carry out on the PCB itself in order to rectify the problem experienced with those problematic LCD modules.
I have established that it must be a synchronization (or incompatibility) problem between the 18F252 and the LCD frequencies. I did an experiment using the problematic HD44780-compatible 2x16 LCD modules from Topway (LMB162GDC). What I found was that when the 12V battery was used, those weird characters appeared on the top row of the LCD (nothing appears on the bottom row) as I previously mentioned. However, when a regulated 12v power supply was used instead, the Delta Pulse 2+ logo was displayed and the LCD worked OK! I found this very confusing, however, because in the latter case, it would only work properly if the switching on of the regulated power supply was subjected to a certain "timing" interval. In other words, I would have to switch ON, then switch OFF briefly, and switch it back ON again - then the LCD would display correctly.
So what do you think would be the conclusion about what the actual problem might be? I guess it has something to do with "triggering" or "synchronization" between the 18F252 and the LCD controller chip. The technical jargon for the appearance of this problem, I believe, is related to: "the power-up initialization of HD44780-compatible LCD module".
Well, as I have said before, the quickest solution to this problem is to use an LCD module obtained from a different manufacturer. But I can see the problem from the experimenter's/DIY'ers point of view, namely, that in certain countries (such as, perhaps, in Rumania and in my own country of South Africa), there is not a large selection of compatible LCD modules readily available, and so one would have to go through the trouble of ordering it through the internet. So I will agree with you that there must be someone out there with technical knowledge who could suggest some modification to the PCB that could allow the proper initialization of the LCD module at power-up.
Let's hope someone helps us with this well-known problem.
Obrigado (= thank you, in Portuguese)
Ciao
Speedy_G
Leave a comment:
-
whether there are ways to work with lcd models WH1602b (Winstar) ? With a change on-board or ?Originally posted by Speedy_G View PostHi Saromines Ramiel
I think that the best person to answer your query would be one of your own compatriots, namely Ram, who also resides in the Phillipines where you are. He is the Guru in programming PICs and Atmegas. I have no experience with PIC programmer K150 and I have only used Pickit2 which worked flawlessly for me. I can only reiterate my advice given to members of the Thunting forum (as I mentioned in my previous post in this forum) that generally the problem that you have discovered, namely, quote: "...when i turn on the LCD there are many characters running on top." is really just the result of some incompatibility in triggering the 20 MHz crystal of the 18F252 which has to synchronize with the LCD frequency. In other words, with some of these LCD modules, the Delta Pulse Logo does not appear automatically and only garbled letters appear on the top row of LCD screen. This situation occurs when one uses the LCD models WH1602b (Winstar), DEM16216, GDM1602A or LMB162GDC (Topway) - I found that this situation was much improved without changing the software (hex file), but using a different LCD model, such as ACM1602S (American Zettler Inc), MC1602J-SYL (Everbouquet) or DV-20400 (Data Vision).
Hope this goes some way to answering your question
Ciao
Speedy_G

Leave a comment:
-
thanks porkluvr
can you help me to made a good coil please ?
i want change inside resistant of irf740 to 1k & other side to 680 ohm you say me
my coil is 30 turn of 0.35 wire in 19 cm ring with 4.6 ohm
my wire connect coil to box have 2.2 ohm
when i connect coil to wire i have 5.1 ohm
what i must doing? thank you
Leave a comment:
-
Bad idea.Originally posted by alonejax View Postthanks jap
i change mosfet to irf740 but when i start , ihave 2.15 A
don,t have 150ma
i think i must change my coil, is this true?
my coil is 30 turn of 0.35 with 3.4 ohm resistant then i paralel with 9ohm resistant
for 3 ohm coil
can you guide me please ?
You don't have a three ohm coil. What you have described is a 9Ω damping resistor across your coil and the 680Ω.
So, you now have a 9Ω || 680Ω =~ 8.88Ω. That is equivalent to having a 8.88Ω damping resistor, as I understand what you described.
By the way, when you tell us you have "x" many turns of "y" wire, you may have well have told us nothing, because you have left out the equally important (for the purpose of calculating coil inductance) coil diameter.Attached Files
Leave a comment:
-
Thak you Speedy , I have tried your modifications with value of C8, even I tried to reduce values of C5,C4,C2 but without success.Originally posted by Speedy_G View PostHi strujas
The problem that you experienced with your LCD screen as you have stated:"...Today after dozen times of turning on and off my lcd finally gave signs of life..." has also happened to me after I connected the Topway LCD to my Delta Pulse 2+ board. In order to solve your problem go to the Thunting thread where I have explained how to solve the problem with the garbled letters on the top row of the LCD. The thread is: http://www.thunting.com/smf/pi_desig...t28025.25.html
Hope this helps you and other experimenters/DIYers out there who are experiening the same type of problem with their Delta Pulse 2+ LCD.
Obrigado
Ciao
Speedy_G

I am using PIC 18f252 - I/SP
and LCD Winstar WH1602B-TMI-ET#
It only remain to try new pic or new LCD, these days i will find the solution and inform you all....
Regards
Leave a comment:
-
[QUOTE=porkluvr;169578]One problem you have is that your damping resistor is probably too high for the coil you are using. I can't really tell you what is best (not with any certainty) because that depends on your coil, cable, FET... and some other things. From what you told me earlier I calculate your coil inductance at about 460uH, with only 1.9Ω series resistance. You previously stated the resistance being higher, but did you subtract the multimeters lead resistance??
All I can do from here is plug in an IRFP460 spice model into quick DP transmitter simulation in LTspice, make an "educated" guess at your coil parameters, and then try out different damping resistors. I look at settling times, and the value of damping resistor that settles the fastest is "the winner". That might seem dumb, but I don't have any better way of working.
What I have determined is that something like 430Ω or maybe 390Ω (2W) would probably be a better choice for your damping.
I can only guess at the coil and cable capacitance of your rig, so, my analysis is not very scientific. It is a lot of guesswork. But, my unscientific (virtual) analysis seems to indicate that with 680 ohms, your coil's fly-back would take more than 50us to settle, which bothers me. With the correct damper you may be able to knock 20us off that time.
By the way... the big honking "1.5k" resistor in your picture looks to me more like 1.0kΩ, (brown black red gold (?!), and that, being the preamp input resistor affects my "winner". I will assume you are using 1.0kΩ unless you tell me different. But that resistor's effect is not nearly so great as your coil/cable combination, and like I said, that is a big guess from where I sit.
Damping resistors are something that have to be determined through trial and error, so having multiple values to play with is a good thing. You can try paralleling 1/2 watt resistors across the damper until you can determine the "correct" damper value, but that is not meant to be permanent. A 1/2 W resistor will not withstand 500V pulses for very long...
hi porkluvr
i change that resistant to 680 ohm & change my mosfet to irf740
now when i start not 150ma, this is 2.15A..
Leave a comment:
-
thanks japOriginally posted by jap View PostHi alonejax
-U entered into a problem using another number
U use irfp460,,,If U returned to the original number may get rid of the problem,
-The original is IRF740 or 840------>Must be tested by the first.
best time
j.[ATTACH]24090[/ATTACH]
i change mosfet to irf740 but when i start , ihave 2.15 A
don,t have 150ma
i think i must change my coil, is this true?
my coil is 30 turn of 0.35 with 3.4 ohm resistant then i paralel with 9ohm resistant
for 3 ohm coil
can you guide me please ?
Leave a comment:
-
Thanks for the reply Speedy_G,I think it helps!Originally posted by Speedy_G View PostHi Saromines Ramiel
I think that the best person to answer your query would be one of your own compatriots, namely Ram, who also resides in the Phillipines where you are. He is the Guru in programming PICs and Atmegas. I have no experience with PIC programmer K150 and I have only used Pickit2 which worked flawlessly for me. I can only reiterate my advice given to members of the Thunting forum (as I mentioned in my previous post in this forum) that generally the problem that you have discovered, namely, quote: "...when i turn on the LCD there are many characters running on top." is really just the result of some incompatibility in triggering the 20 MHz crystal of the 18F252 which has to synchronize with the LCD frequency. In other words, with some of these LCD modules, the Delta Pulse Logo does not appear automatically and only garbled letters appear on the top row of LCD screen. This situation occurs when one uses the LCD models WH1602b (Winstar), DEM16216, GDM1602A or LMB162GDC (Topway) - I found that this situation was much improved without changing the software (hex file), but using a different LCD model, such as ACM1602S (American Zettler Inc), MC1602J-SYL (Everbouquet) or DV-20400 (Data Vision).
Hope this goes some way to answering your question
Ciao
Speedy_G

Leave a comment:
-
yet no. if there will be for example 10 men on PCB I will be ready to go and to order 20pcs batch for start. anotherway I have not a stimulus to labour and share the info.
yours
Leave a comment:
-
kt315 you have schematic by deepers 10dd can you give me to check it...
ALSO I have a thought about how to make separation with cmos... without microprocessor and silly led flashing agree kt
Simplicity is developing...
Leave a comment:
-
Hi Saromines RamielOriginally posted by Saromines Ramiel View PostHi! Speedy_G do you have information about PIC K150 programmer i use this programmer (and not the PICKIT2) which i think is not good, when i turn on the LCD there are many characters running on top. when i edit the fuse config. the display is DELTA PULSE 2+. hope you can help me with this. thank you!
I think that the best person to answer your query would be one of your own compatriots, namely Ram, who also resides in the Phillipines where you are. He is the Guru in programming PICs and Atmegas. I have no experience with PIC programmer K150 and I have only used Pickit2 which worked flawlessly for me. I can only reiterate my advice given to members of the Thunting forum (as I mentioned in my previous post in this forum) that generally the problem that you have discovered, namely, quote: "...when i turn on the LCD there are many characters running on top." is really just the result of some incompatibility in triggering the 20 MHz crystal of the 18F252 which has to synchronize with the LCD frequency. In other words, with some of these LCD modules, the Delta Pulse Logo does not appear automatically and only garbled letters appear on the top row of LCD screen. This situation occurs when one uses the LCD models WH1602b (Winstar), DEM16216, GDM1602A or LMB162GDC (Topway) - I found that this situation was much improved without changing the software (hex file), but using a different LCD model, such as ACM1602S (American Zettler Inc), MC1602J-SYL (Everbouquet) or DV-20400 (Data Vision).
Hope this goes some way to answering your question
Ciao
Speedy_G
Leave a comment:
-
Hi! Speedy_G do you have information about PIC K150 programmer i use this programmer (and not the PICKIT2) which i think is not good, when i turn on the LCD there are many characters running on top. when i edit the fuse config. the display is DELTA PULSE 2+. hope you can help me with this. thank you!Originally posted by Speedy_G View PostHi strujas
The problem that you experienced with your LCD screen as you have stated:"...Today after dozen times of turning on and off my lcd finally gave signs of life..." has also happened to me after I connected the Topway LCD to my Delta Pulse 2+ board. In order to solve your problem go to the Thunting thread where I have explained how to solve the problem with the garbled letters on the top row of the LCD. The thread is: http://www.thunting.com/smf/pi_desig...t28025.25.html
Hope this helps you and other experimenters/DIYers out there who are experiening the same type of problem with their Delta Pulse 2+ LCD.
Obrigado
Ciao
Speedy_G

Leave a comment:
-
GS, I copied this way from DEEPERS 10DD. thinking this has a right to be there. try to connect directly and tell about your experience.
yours
Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: