Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

TESORO GOLDEN SABRE

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • tiktak
    replied
    Hi

    Thanks,
    Max.
    But I am wonderind how much should be the distance that I have draw on this picture!If the coils should be 22 cm when asembled then I think that this distance must be more than 9,5cm?For the high I now 22cm but how much should be this distance,so when asembed to be 22cm?
    Maybe 10,5 cm or 11?

    Leave a comment:


  • Max
    replied
    Originally posted by tiktak View Post
    Hi,
    Max.
    Can you tell me what is this distance in cm-s for my DD 22 coil?
    Shell I use this angles that ivconic shows on this pictures,or the shape of coils should be D?
    Thanks
    p.s.Can I try washing my pcb with thinner for nitrocellulose?
    Hi tiktak,
    picture posted is right for you. You can follow as guide , no need of perfect D at all. Then null as always.

    About thinner for nitrocellulose... well I think it's not a good idea... cause maybe there is some other stuff in the mix. Don't know... if you can find e.g. pure acetone or isopropilic alcohol is better, also your thinner could leave residuals. No way.

    You could try also with pure ethanol (but is less efficient removing flux) or ethilic ether (but do not breath it, work outside, heavy toxic).

    Best regards,
    Max

    Leave a comment:


  • tiktak
    replied
    did you wind Tx and Rx in same direction or they should have oposite directions?

    Leave a comment:


  • tiktak
    replied
    Hi

    Originally posted by Max View Post
    Hi,
    Try this:

    OuterDD 22cm
    Former diameter 19cm
    wire as you said (that is about 0.28 without varnish)
    TX turns = 140
    RX turns = 145

    About flux... never used a sharp tool to do that... always chemicals.
    You maybe have removed main part of it... but this stuff is subtle and if you can, try use some cotton and one of solvents I've indicated (use outside).

    About LF353 well there could be a problem... find it anyway and try in circuit, it's not so good replacement TL082 or TL072.

    Some good replacement could be a dual CA series ic... now also obsolete, but with similar inputs circuitry. Have no idea at the moment of real good replacement for it.

    Best regards,
    Max


    Hi,
    Max.
    Can you tell me what is this distance in cm-s for my DD 22 coil?
    Shell I use this angles that ivconic shows on this pictures,or the shape of coils should be D?
    Thanks
    p.s.Can I try washing my pcb with thinner for nitrocellulose?
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Max
    replied
    Originally posted by nelson View Post
    Max, the only replacement i have done is LM308 by TL081, the rest is original from the schematics, perhapf a few caps that are from diferent materials.
    Regards
    Nelson
    Hi,
    Ok, TL081 is fine for testing and even use... it's a good replacement for LM308 cause it's so easy to find.
    Also detector is really stable with it in circuit: no problems.

    You don't need change them to get it work good.

    If you find there try TLC2262 instead of TL062.

    Best regards,
    Max

    Leave a comment:


  • Max
    replied
    Originally posted by nelson View Post
    Sorry for my poor english, what is flux?
    Regards
    Nelson
    Hi Nelson,
    flux is a kind of chemical stuff present in electronic solder wires.
    Main purpose is removing superficial oxides (of copper, of components leads...) and so make it easy solder joints on PCBs.

    You can also find it in cans... other containers and made of various chemicals, older flux was zinc-cloride based.

    Activation of reaction is due by heat (soldering iron heat surfaces and flux) then flux bind oxigen (do you see fumes when solder stuff ?) thus giving e.g. polished copper layer, then lead-tin alloy solder easy surfaces.

    When you use quality solder wire, with flux inside (so called "cored solder wire" or just "flux cored", most common is lead+tin+flux-core), you have a kind of residual of chemicals (residual flux) that seems like kind of "grease" near your solders.

    That's the flux I mean, that you have to remove.

    Other types of solder wire haven't flux inside and require external flux to make good solders (so called "solid solder wire", that often is just lead-tin alloy)

    If you don't remove it you could have problems due to unwanted coupling between e.g. op. amps. cause flux is somehow conductive.

    There are water soluble flux (like in some kester solder wires e.g. Kester Part # 24-6337-6409) that just require hot water to melt and dissolve from PCB in the water. But more often you have to use solvents to remove it as explained.

    Best regards,
    Max

    Leave a comment:


  • Max
    replied
    Originally posted by tiktak View Post
    Hi,
    Max.
    I personaly remouved flux with sharp ithem and make shore that there have no connection betwen the elements.Is this good?
    I still cant get good results!
    I desided to use wire from my first coil/because now dont have other wire/
    And use small d!
    But wondering which to use?
    I have several configurations that I can see here for DD 22 cm!
    Which to use?
    DD22 cm:
    Former d=?
    Outer d=?
    Tx turns=?
    Rx turns=?
    wire 0,30 mm with varnish.
    Thanks
    p.s.I have used TL082 insted of LF353.Try TL072,but no differance.Now will order LF353.
    But my probleme must be coil.
    Thanks
    Hi,
    Try this:

    OuterDD 22cm
    Former diameter 19cm
    wire as you said (that is about 0.28 without varnish)
    TX turns = 140
    RX turns = 145

    About flux... never used a sharp tool to do that... always chemicals.
    You maybe have removed main part of it... but this stuff is subtle and if you can, try use some cotton and one of solvents I've indicated (use outside).

    About LF353 well there could be a problem... find it anyway and try in circuit, it's not so good replacement TL082 or TL072.

    Some good replacement could be a dual CA series ic... now also obsolete, but with similar inputs circuitry. Have no idea at the moment of real good replacement for it.

    Best regards,
    Max

    Leave a comment:


  • detectoman
    replied
    nelson;

    el flux son los residuos de pasta o fundente que queda al soldar
    y que en algunos circuitos pudiera ser un causador de interferencias
    y por eso ayudaria el quitarlo

    un abrazo nelson
    detectoman

    Leave a comment:


  • nelson
    replied
    Max, the only replacement i have done is LM308 by TL081, the rest is original from the schematics, perhapf a few caps that are from diferent materials.
    Regards
    Nelson


    Originally posted by Max View Post
    Hi Nelson,
    I've tested untill now:

    TL062
    TL072
    TL082
    TLC2262

    First 3 almost the same... changes nothing... well 062 is a bit more unstable than others two (that seem exactly the same, can't note any difference) but really few. All they are from STMicro.

    Then also used TLC2262 and things are more stable, I've admit.

    TLC2262 is from Texas Instruments. Have better noise figure. Same pinout of TL062.

    I saw LF442 on original schematic so changed that thing to figure out how to suit better. If you have LF442 try this, or buy TLC2262.

    "This cause i have the same problem with a few crack on audio"

    To me happened just at maximum sens in all-metal.

    This fact could depend also by other things... not just less noise in TL062 place. For example another hot spot here is preamplifier:

    I've used LF353 but tested TL082, TLC2262 also here... but there are problems cause 353 has real particular jfet inputs... so it's a bit critical to change and save performance.

    BTW have you used BF245C ?

    Best regards,
    Max

    Leave a comment:


  • nelson
    replied
    Sorry for my poor english, what is flux?
    Regards
    Nelson


    Originally posted by Max View Post
    Nelson have you removed flux , right ?

    Flux removal is mandatory in this kind of stuff.

    Leave a comment:


  • tiktak
    replied
    Hi

    Hi,
    Max.
    I personaly remouved flux with sharp ithem and make shore that there have no connection betwen the elements.Is this good?
    I still cant get good results!
    I desided to use wire from my first coil/because now dont have other wire/
    And use small d!
    But wondering which to use?
    I have several configurations that I can see here for DD 22 cm!
    Which to use?
    DD22 cm:
    Former d=?
    Outer d=?
    Tx turns=?
    Rx turns=?
    wire 0,30 mm with varnish.
    Thanks
    p.s.I have used TL082 insted of LF353.Try TL072,but no differance.Now will order LF353.
    But my probleme must be coil.
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Max
    replied
    Hi,
    still more puzzled now... so who is Unregistered that was lost in space with GSabre ???

    For real ??? How ?
    Everything works on my homemade ! Used also different stuff !

    Unregistered ,c'mon hit the table... if you are here!
    Or register... make us this GIFT!

    Best regards,
    Max

    Leave a comment:


  • Max
    replied
    Originally posted by Nihil Roma Maius View Post
    Max, sorry.

    I'm not the unregistered!
    Hi,
    sorry for the mistake... I always exchange you also for Esteban and Hung...
    now also unregistered! Damn !

    Maybe are that damn cigars ! Kind of a fog and can't see things right way!

    Best regards,
    Max

    Leave a comment:


  • Nihil Roma Maius
    replied
    Max, sorry.

    I'm not the unregistered!

    Leave a comment:


  • Max
    replied
    Originally posted by Unregistered View Post
    How do you remouve the flux MAX?
    Its look like TGS have made you crazy like us.
    Hi
    are you Nihil ? Still playing with flux ?

    I always remove flux, even if not required.
    In any VLF detectors you have to do. And is always good practice.

    Or you play with toys and LRLs ???

    I use solvents, brush and also cotton (depends) for little things like GS.

    I found that best to do is a bit more complicated (but extremely good for smd):

    ultrasonic wash in solvents but taking care that upper side of circuit is not involved. Surface waves remove all residual flux... but problem is that once used you can't reuse same solvent, and you need much so it's not indicated in a single homemade pcb work like this.

    Solvents are mostly: tert-butyl alcohol, isopropilic alcohol, acetone (but not so good for copper), trichloroethylene (more toxic of others).

    All are good using ultrasonic waves... but if you treat also top layer you'll lose ic numbers... have some plastic melt

    You have to use a suspend "bridge" to avoid immersion of board for more than 1mm in solvent.

    For GSabre I've not used ultrasonic cleaning but just trichloroethylene some cotton and a tothbrush(outside) (and a Clint Eastwood's cigar , of course).

    Best regards,
    Max

    PS: here is an example of bad flux removal (or no-flux-removal at all???)
    another mineoro's masterpiece: ENJOY
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X