TESORO GOLDEN SABRE

[Jabberwock]

For Double D like in the TGSL101, you'll need 65cm for each turn.
I'm from France, and in europe, I found it on Ebay. search for enamel magnet wire.
Brocotts is the UK seller I bought my spools from except for one specific gauge I got from temco industrial from the US.
Both of them had fair price and fast and reliable delivery. They might not be the only ones.

for other double D values, the formula will be: "number of turns" * (Diameter + 3.14*Diameter/2)

[kt315]

200 * 3,14 * D = L

[sdesic]

Thank you Jabberwock and Qiaozhi for your reply.
I am now looking for used TGSL or new TGSL coil with or without 5 pins connector on ebay and here.

Also looking for good place on Internet to buy enamelled copper wire for building one 0,25 mm ...
don't know how long is that 200 turns for TGLS coil.

[Qiaozhi]

How hard is it to build from Silverdog's TGSL EDU KIT ...
I think it is problem with tuning that MD with itself and hand made coil.
Can it be done without oscilloscope use ?

Although (with a lot of care and patience) you could build the TGSL EDU kit from Silverdog without an oscilloscope, you will be making your life very difficult. Certainly I would not recommend building your own coil. Buy a commercial 5-pin Tesoro coil from ebay to start with, as they are relatively cheap. Later you can experiment by making your own coil, once you understand what you're doing. An oscilloscope is a worthwhile investment, especially if you plan to build other metal detector projects in the future. Without one, it's like trying to read in a dark room while wearing sunglases.

[Jabberwock]

How hard is it to build from Silverdog's TGSL EDU KIT ...
I think it is problem with tuning that MD with itself and hand made coil.
Can it be done without oscilloscope use ?

Hi,

I've been soldering sometimes to repair consoles or other easy things to fix for some times before I managed to build the TGSL from Silverdog kits.
It's really easy to build, every component is labelled (you don't even have to decipher color codes on resistors).
The most important thing is to make good solders, like some nice guys here, really really more experienced than me, said.
One thing you can consider if you think you'll have some more projects to do involving electronic solderine: a good not too expensive solder station.
I just bought a aoyue 937 and it's wonderful, and much more comfortable to use compared to my antec solder iron that wasn't that bad.

Regarding the coils, you can make them easily without a scope. I made a few like that.
Just follow carefully the TGSL101 files.
Remember, the nulling (lower voltage on pin 7 of LF353 is really precise. you will have to make really really really small moves. Ideally, someone will hold the multimeter and tells you if the value is increasing or decreasing while you are moving. When the lowest value is set, either glue the coils together with hot melt glue or cyanoacrylate (501 glue).
Then you can still conform the coils to fine adjust if the value has moved up a little.

I had some trouble one time, even with the lowest possible voltage on pin 7, I wasn't able to reject the ferrite.
Inverting the 2 pins on one of the coils solved this and it works perfectly now.
If someone can explain why, I'd like to understand.
I believe it's related to the quadrants, but I haven't searched yet.

you can buy the coils and electronics housings from Georgi, here on the forum, they are nice and cheap.

[sdesic]

How hard is it to build from Silverdog's TGSL EDU KIT ...
I think it is problem with tuning that MD with itself and hand made coil.
Can it be done without oscilloscope use ?

[paku]

Now The Simple Is I Buy TGSL From Silverdog and assemble It Hehehe
Thanks To All And SilverDog Team
My TGSL Has arrive In My House

[Jerry]

Soldering is easy but it does require a bit of practice and technique.

This may be be helpful.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4

Jerry

[golfnut]

I agree,

one thing he may have use lead free solder ( which I dont use, I prefer the old leaded solder which gives bright free flowing shiny joints)

he may have had an iron which was a little on the cool side.

His pcb copper may have been slightly tarnished from his homebrew etch.

S

[satdaveuk]

Paku.

Turn the Threshold pot to zero,
Turn the Disc pot fully to zero and then wave a large Iron target close to coil


There is a chance you wired one or all of the pots backwards, repeat with pots at max//



If nothing, then,

Do you have access to a multimeter?


If you do -
1) Check the supplies postive + and negative -
2) Measure the AC voltage across your Tx coil


Dont use a phone to take the .jpg images as they are not good enough - these images are of no practical use.

Offer up a small speaker to you Tx coil - can you hear sound from the speaker?


My experience of leaving flux on a unit is - No effect - I think its a bit of an engineering myth. ( Sorry Dave - your right it is unsightly and obsures detail for us trying to help )


Steve

Hi steve
I always clean up after not just for technical reasons but because its looks like a engineer has done the job and not the next door nabour if you get my drift.
Also if you have got other faults after doing a repair its allot easer to work on a tidy clean circuit board.
Paku soldering is just down to lack of experience and proberly never been fortunate enough to be shown how to do it.
Getting trained next to a good well wethered engineer on the workbench is still really the only way to learn.

[satdaveuk]

ok thanks BOS i will make new board and new component an i will try make new one
clean and clear board like mirror hehehe!!!

lol nice to have a giggle now and then.

If you want to learn how to be good at soldering then do this:
Go down your local hardwear shop and buy some small copper panel pins and nail them into a block of wood at random with about 5mm still showing ( lightly scrape with sharp knife as you would with component leads before installing them)
Then strip the insulation off some old wire around .5mm will do the trick
Get the striped wire and clean if nessary then do one turn around the first nail and move to the second nail and so forth until all pins have a turn each round them joining together.

Soldering: When iron is at its operating temprature and not before wipe iron tip with damp sponge followed by a light tinning of solder which should just cover the tip soldering surface (if you put to much on it will give you a blob on the end which is no good, just a quick jolt of the iron into bin or something will release excess solder.
The solder you use if old and dull clean in same manner as ive described earlier although fine sandpaper is quicker.
When soldering a joint the tip of the iron needs to be directed at the pcb and the component wire (not the solder) feed the solder onto the joins you are soldering which in this case is the pin and the wire.
I was trained to solder this way back when 8-9 years old and practised for weeks on end , got through hundreds of nails and old wire until I was told that my soldering was up to scratch.
Every solder joint you make in this way do continuity checks for high resistance joints and dry joints.
A typical well soldered joint should be smooth with no spikes and no blobs.
A blob is where the engineer has either used to much solder or the solder hasnt run correctly into the joins.
Joins with spikes is often due to dabbing the iron and solder or applieing solder to the iron instead of the join.
A typical time of soldering a component onto a pcb should be no longer than1.5 seconds, if longer is required you either have not cleaned one of the surfaces or you cant solder properly.
The golden rule is : all soldering joints must be spotless and the tip of the iron clean and tinned, When actually soldering its( heat -feed solder-finished) .
Once you get into the habbit you will know if its a good solder join before your iron is lifted because you get a feel for it.
Keep practising

[paku]

update

thanks bro i will try that

[golfnut]

Paku.

Turn the Threshold pot to zero,
Turn the Disc pot fully to zero and then wave a large Iron target close to coil


There is a chance you wired one or all of the pots backwards, repeat with pots at max//



If nothing, then,

Do you have access to a multimeter?


If you do -
1) Check the supplies postive + and negative -
2) Measure the AC voltage across your Tx coil


Dont use a phone to take the .jpg images as they are not good enough - these images are of no practical use.

Offer up a small speaker to you Tx coil - can you hear sound from the speaker?


My experience of leaving flux on a unit is - No effect - I think its a bit of an engineering myth. ( Sorry Dave - your right it is unsightly and obsures detail for us trying to help )


Steve

[paku]

ok thanks BOS i will make new board and new component an i will try make new one
clean and clear board like mirror hehehe!!!

[satdaveuk]

Ok This My My TGSL

[ATTACH]23746[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]23747[/ATTACH]
Dit I Make Rong circuit

To be serious Paku you need to learn how to solder, in the trade we call that bird **** because it looks as though a bird has **** on it from a great hight.
In normal circumstances I would say check your oscillator circuit but that build is proberly riddled with faults firstly just to name a few, its quite evident in certain areas that you have been on way to long with the soldering iron , and the rest instead of allowing the solder to flow through the component wires in one motion on/off finished you have been dabbing it and not allowing the solder to flow.
Before you go any further clean the burnt flux off first by scratching with small screw driver blade then use tooth brush with non lubricated switch cleaner unless you have any industrial alcohol to hand.
After that repost picture so we can see it properly.