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  • Cyclonite
    replied
    Originally posted by simonbaker View Post

    BTW: I think he has no scope, making it difficult to run tests (and obtain a wife in some cultures...).

    -SB
    He once blew his scope up, ... killing his wife in the process (a cheap divorce solution I suppose)

    About the scope, he had admitted this. But I don't really know if he was married at all

    Maybe he does not even like woman

    Regards,

    Robert

    Leave a comment:


  • simonbaker
    replied
    Originally posted by Qiaozhi View Post
    As you start overlapping the coils you will reach a null point. Then continue through the null until you achieve the correct phase relationship. If you cannot get the correct phase difference, then swap over the RX wires. The double-beep test can also be useful.

    Rather than simply following a step-by-step set of instructions, it is better to try and understand what is going on. That's why a 2-channel scope is almost a necessity.
    That clarifies it -- correct phase should be found on the side of null that is more overlapped -- if not, swap wires. Still, it would be good if someone would reference a diagram of a working design -- is it clear in TGSFinal stuff?

    BTW: I think he has no scope, making it difficult to run tests (and obtain a wife in some cultures...).

    -SB

    Leave a comment:


  • Qiaozhi
    replied
    Originally posted by simonbaker View Post
    Hi Qiaozhi:

    What if he has nulled coil on "wrong" side? Wouldn't that confuse the issue?
    As you start overlapping the coils you will reach a null point. Then continue through the null until you achieve the correct phase relationship. If you cannot get the correct phase difference, then swap over the RX wires. The double-beep test can also be useful.

    Rather than simply following a step-by-step set of instructions, it is better to try and understand what is going on. That's why a 2-channel scope is almost a necessity.

    Leave a comment:


  • simonbaker
    replied
    Originally posted by porkluvr View Post
    According to my wire gauge charts, your wire gauge conversions are mostly incorrect.

    http://www.allem.com/wireengr.html is where I got my information (from the Magnet Wire Dimension Chart)

    23AWG = 0.570mm (bare, ~0.62mm with enamel)

    20AWG = 0.8128mm (bare, ~0.86mm with enamel)

    21AWG = 0.7239mm (bare, ~0.77mm with enamel)

    30AWG = 0.2540mm (bare, ~0.285mm with enamel)

    One interesting detail about the "AWG" wire system: as you go down by 3 wire sizes, the wire cross sectional area and weight increases 2x (and resistance will decrease by 1/2).

    As an example, 20AWG will have twice the weight and 1/2 the resistance of 23AWG (for two wires of the same length). This all may be unimportant but is sometimes useful to know.

    What is important is that if you have 0.25mm wire (approximately 30AWG), that is a very good choice for making a light-weight coil for the TGSL. If your wire is instead 23AWG, this will make a coil much heavier than is necessary.
    I've been experimenting with heavier wire and found that it may cause other difficulties (besides the weight) because it has less resistance and changes the "Q" of the RX resonant circuit, which changes the amount of phase shift of the received signal at a given offset from the resonant frequency. It also changes the spectral content of the noise picked up. I don't understand these effects at this time, but it might make it harder to get your MD working the same as others using more typical wire gauges.

    -SB

    Leave a comment:


  • simonbaker
    replied
    Originally posted by Qiaozhi View Post
    You will find the answer to your question by monitoring the output of the pre-amp, relative to the TX signal, using a 2-channel oscilloscope. If the RX phase-shift is 20 degrees, the RX coil is the correct way round. If it's 200 degrees, then swap over the two connections.
    Hi Qiaozhi:

    What if he has nulled coil on "wrong" side? Wouldn't that confuse the issue?

    We should know the answer to his question directly. However, I do the same thing -- look at the phases on the scope and swap wires if it looks wrong.

    Another way to check, as mentioned a number of times, is to check for double-beep when testing with a coin at about 8 to 10 cm. Double-beep usually means leads of one of the coils should be swapped. Of course watch out for the ground wire connections when swapping leads.

    As mentioned by dfbowers I think, you can also flip over a coil to change the winding direction. Then make sure grounding is consistent.

    I have to puzzle over this a little to convince myself which topologies are identical or at least perform identically.

    But really, we should be able to answer this question directly with a diagram. Hopefully someone who has just recently made an excellent working coil will just say which one they used.

    -SB

    Leave a comment:


  • Cyclonite
    replied
    Hi Coil Builders,

    If you look inside a CRT Television Set, or CRT Computer Monitor, you will find a Taped-In Degaussing / Demagnetising Coil as One Single Loop connected to a PTC Thermistor which goes directly to the Mains Power Supply. It's more or less about 0.25mm Taped-In Cu Wire for Big Screen CRT TV Sets, and smaller CRT Monitors may use a somewhat finer Cu Wire. Unrolled, and wound onto a small Toilet Paper Role, you will have more than enought Cu Wire to make a Search Coil in One-Go without having to lengthen it by soldering pieces together.

    Taped-In (black) CRT TV Degaussing / Demagnetising Coil:



    If you look around a little, then you will find most, and have to buy least of the materials needed for the construction of this Metal Detector. Even all the components can be found if you know were to look. Throughout the years, I have removed hundreds, and collected more than three Banana Boxes full of CRT TV and Monitor Taped-In Degaussing / Demagnetising Coils from discarded Sets found alongside the roads here in Holland.

    If like me you do not have the money to push, then you will have to push your imagination and creativity a lot harder. And this shore as hell beets living a life by being Brain-Dead

    Regards,

    Robert

    Leave a comment:


  • Virdi_248
    replied
    Originally posted by Vladimir View Post
    Read my previous post, the results you will not be
    dismal with a slightly different view of the Tx coil.

    I have a lot of copper wire of 0.25 to build more coils.

    I have read your previous post tx recommended for 60 laps. RX "continues with 107 laps?

    Leave a comment:


  • Virdi_248
    replied
    I put the new capacitors 220N and now much improved sensitivity improved but not enough. Now a euro coin 15cm detected prior to 3 cm.

    The detector is improving thanks to your help.

    Leave a comment:


  • Vladimir
    replied
    Originally posted by Virdi_248 View Post
    [quote = porkluvr; 111427] Tesoro tiene el original o bobinas a menudo se pueden encontrar en Ebay.




    La serie umax son lo que evolucionaron a partir de la serie de Sabre, por lo que las bobinas que figuran en la serie umax debería funcionar. La cuestión de la bobina original era el 8 "Ronda concéntricos.

    No es suficiente para su bobina de tener solamente buenos profundidad de detección. También debe tener buena discriminación. Tener una "especificación original" bobina de fábrica puede ser una cosa muy buena para que funcione. [/ Quote]


    The coils I will price a little expensive. I think I'll build more coils internt. I own 23 awg copper wire (0.25mm) 20 AWG (0.5 mm) and 21 AWG (0.7 mm).



    I built a coil in the form of D and I used 23awg wire 120 turns for 110 laps for RX and TX. The results were dismal.



    That copper wire which I have can work better and be more manageable to build the coil.
    Read my previous post, the results you will not be
    dismal with a slightly different view of the Tx coil.

    Leave a comment:


  • Virdi_248
    replied
    I'm buying the correct capacitors.

    Thank you very much everybody. Then I will comment if it worked the change of capacitors.

    Sorry for the translation

    Leave a comment:


  • ApBerg
    replied
    Hello Virdi,

    Both , Mike and Robert are giving good info, but on the pcb where is standing N22 you need to place cap's from 220nF.

    Regards.

    Ap


    (ps robert het is hier nu 8.35)

    Leave a comment:


  • Cyclonite
    replied
    Originally posted by Virdi_248 View Post
    Hello again.

    ... Can someone check if polyester capacitors are bad?

    Also I have another question. N22 is the same 220N?

    Greetings
    Hi @Verdi_248,

    N22 is NOT the same as 220N!

    Capacitor Coding's:


    If the mark on the capacitor is 120 the value is 120pF, 1n2 stands for 1.2nF, n22 stands for 0.22nF, while .1µ (or .1u) stands for 0.1µF.
    Your Capacitors are wrong !!!

    If a n22 Capacitor belonging to the same series as the 220nF capacitor, has about the same size, then the the voltage of this n22 capacitor should be far higher than the 220nf capacitor (verification check).

    You can also build an audible test oscillator with a 555 chip and a 220N capacitor, and then swap it with a n22 capacitor. The frequency should then be 1000 higher, and inaudible to the ear.

    Strange, I replied at about the same moment as @mikebg, and yet there is 19 Minutes time shift.
    Regards,

    Robert

    Leave a comment:


  • mikebg
    replied
    Originally posted by Virdi_248 View Post

    Also I have another question. N22 is the same 220N?

    Greetings
    N22 means 0.22nF=220pF

    Leave a comment:


  • Virdi_248
    replied
    Hello again.

    Tgsl built discriminate well but detects shallow. I built three coils around and DD with the measures outlined tgsl but caught very little.

    Can someone check if polyester capacitors are bad?

    Also I have another question. N22 is the same 220N?

    Greetings
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Virdi_248
    replied
    [quote = porkluvr; 111449] Con agreement De Mis Cartas de cable calibre, Las Conversiones de calibre de cable es hijo de su Son correctos Mayoría.

    http://www.allem.com/wireengr.html es dónde son los cantantes Tengo mi información (Por El Imán de alambre Dimensión Chart)

    23AWG = 0.570mm (desnudo, esmalte Con 0.62mm ~)

    20AWG = 0.8128mm (desnudo, esmalte Con 0.86mm ~)

    21AWG = 0.7239mm (desnudo, esmalte Con 0.77mm ~)

    30AWG = 0.2540mm (desnudo, esmalte Con 0.285mm ~)

    Un Detalle Interesante Sobre el Sistema "GTE": una Medida Que Avanza Por 3 tamaños de cable, el cable de la Sección El transversales Y El peso aumenta 2x (y La Resistencia sí reducirá en 1 / 2).

    A modo de ejemplo, 20AWG Tendra El Doble y peso de 1 / 2 de la Resistencia de 23AWG (dos cables de la Por Longitud MISMA). Todo ESTO PUEDE ningún servicio Importante Pero es un Veces Útil sable.

    Lo Importante es Que Si Tienes cable de 0,25 mm (30AWG aproximadamente), es MUY BUENA Que Una Elección párr La Toma de Una Bobina de peso Ligero PARA EL TGSL. Si es por cable EL, EN CAMBIO 23AWG, ESTO Hará Una Bobina Mucho Más Pesado de lo Necesario. [/ Quote


    Todos los hilos están disponibles para mí como el esmalte y el esmalte está incluido.

    Una de las preguntas. Piensa lo mal que se ha construido la bobina debe detectar una moneda por lo menos dos pulgadas? (Change rx and tx joints in all possible positions and remains the same).

    He construido dos detectores de pulso y algunos rollos funcionado mal en mí, pero al menos me detectaron una moneda a 4 pulgadas. En tgsl sólo detecta una moneda a una pulgada. Soy un peso que algo anda mal en el detector.


    Muy mala traducción, lo siento.

    Leave a comment:

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