Mohandes
what transistor do you need ?
if its a mpf102 I can post some to you, they are Australian $1.50 each
the postage would be about Australian $3.00
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BARACUDA-Legend-1
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You can order the replacement parts and other from this company, looks like they will ship to Iran.
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Who can buy the transistor and send to iran for me?
i pay money to him or (her)
please
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Hallo Bernte
What did you find ? I like to make an smd version also but i only have a black printer and that makes it difficult to find a mistake.
regards
Leendert
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HiOriginally posted by mohandes View PostHi fabian and stadaveuk
first thanks for your attention but i need EXPLANATION why this part (2n3819) not work good?(if hard ,dont need)
where am I live? I am living in I R A N.an you send for me mr stadaveuk???
thanks
I for one have never said its good or bad, why don't you do a google search on what you should use together with what you have used and do a comparison, Then if still in doubt write down the spec of both components on here, and then maybe after seeing your motivation come into play we will be queuing up to help you, I personally have not got time to do what i'm sure your capable of doing simple searches.
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Originally posted by Fabian View PostHi Mohandes. I don´t know if the fets that you put in your Bara are ok, but you can see anothers replacements on post #48 on page 3. Maybe you could find these ones in your country. By the way, Where are you from?
Regards,
FabiánHi fabian and stadaveukOriginally posted by satdaveuk View PostHi Mohandles
I am sure there are loads of people here who would like to help you but reluctant to give advise because unless they have used equivalents and proved beyond any doubt that they will do the job they and me don't want to give you false information.
Pm me your address and if the post is not to expensive will send you the correct parts
first thanks for your attention but i need EXPLANATION why this part (2n3819) not work good?(if hard ,dont need)
where am I live? I am living in I R A N.an you send for me mr stadaveuk???
thanks
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Hi MohandlesOriginally posted by mohandes View PostNO BODY KNOW MY PROBLEM
I am sure there are loads of people here who would like to help you but reluctant to give advise because unless they have used equivalents and proved beyond any doubt that they will do the job they and me don't want to give you false information.
Pm me your address and if the post is not to expensive will send you the correct parts
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Hi MaiklOriginally posted by maikl View PostHi satdaveuk,I thought that FET to the coil... IRF9640 or TIP127...I noticed that IRF9640 (12v power supply), gives better results in the air but the greater the effect of soil on the coil... but you say as the original, there is a TIP127.
Yes the original used TIP127 which is a Darlington type transistor where as the IRF9640 is a FET , I used the latter which is the TIP127Since I posted here I tryed my 8" coil on the test bed and its working fine , then tried using the CAT5e solid pure copper with the pairs wired in series as described way back in earlier posts on here and had same results as on the beach which was useless soon as you approach the ground even with a crude shielding like tin foil.I think the problem lies where the cables are bunched up at one end and terminated, where as if the cat cable was striped of its pairs and run in a continuous loop throughout the coil , 20/25 meters should do the trick then all would be ok.MY 8" coil and the 1.5" coil were both made with .22mm or there abouts multicore tined copper wire the type used in alarm installations with great success , they see very little ground, optimum detecting with the 8" coil is hover about 1" from the ground surface, the small coil you can brush the surface and still keep constant threshold.Both coils were shielded with Synthetic graphite mix.Its worth a mention here for others that don't know, when buying cable steer clear of the cheap copper coated alloy or steel types which do come in the forms of CAT5E and alarm cables, normally if its a branded cable and they have used this as a budget production it will be marked CCL which is copper clad type.Easy way to prove it once obtained is strip the insulation off it and scrape with a knife a few times, if its CCL type you will find the shiny copper will disappear and your left with a dull metal,If its tin on pure copper which is what I used then by scraping you will see the copper start to appear its worth doing the check before going to the trouble of winding a coil.
Regards
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Hi Mohandes. I don´t know if the fets that you put in your Bara are ok, but you can see anothers replacements on post #48 on page 3. Maybe you could find these ones in your country. By the way, Where are you from?
Regards,
Fabián
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NO BODY KNOW MY PROBLEMOriginally posted by mohandes View Posthi stadaveuk and gurus
sorry me my english bad but i think you say the green caps are ok!!!
but my ? are:
have good equivalent for the mpf and 2n5485?
whay the speaker dont work?
why i havenot 2.9 volts at the coil ?and another say in last post
regards
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Hi satdaveuk,Originally posted by satdaveuk View PostHi Maik
I don't know which fet your referring too but all components are the same as the original Barracuda hand drawn circuit and part numbers/description and made PCB from the lay files, apart from the reservoir capacitor which should be 6,200mfd which I replaced with a 4,700mfd, All resistors and capacitors were checked before installing to a tolerence of 1% or less.
Its quite a education that out of a bag of 50 good quality branded capacitors your lucky to find 6-7 that are within the spec specified.
Thanks for your feedback
Regards
I thought that FET to the coil... IRF9640 or TIP127...
I noticed that IRF9640 (12v power supply), gives better results in the air but the greater the effect of soil on the coil... but you say as the original, there is a TIP127.
Leave a comment:
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hi stadaveuk and gurus
sorry me my english bad but i think you say the green caps are ok!!!
but my ? are:
have good equivalent for the mpf and 2n5485?
whay the speaker dont work?
why i havenot 2.9 volts at the coil ?and another say in last post
regards
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Hi Mohandles
The second build I am in the middle of making is using allot of those green capacitors you have used, I manged to buy a few hundred of those at the right price, and doing ESR checks for spec im getting about 10 out of every 50 that pull me into the 1% tolerance, which includes applying a little heat and then a quick freeze, which needs to be done because remember these detectors are getting used in various temperatures through out the year.
The main reason why I bought them to try was because they were used allot in the older transceivers back in the early 70s there placements within the circuits needed to be of accurate specification.
When they used to come in the workshops for repair it was very rare to find capacitor breakdown, was normally either fractured print or transistor breakdown due to battery terminal mix up.
Only draw back with those caps is when going for the higher capacitance they are a bit on the large side for this project as in they stand quite tall, also they were never the reliable st of capacitors in high voltage applications, but fine for what we are doing here.
All the best
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