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A little progress was made, I swapped all the 393's and the 358's and i'm now able to discriminate , but the GB is still at the very end of the POT, same if I use a 20K or a 50k .
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you were not far off, Chips were not fake but one was faulty, change them all and put originals back in one by one till I found the bad one. Everything is back to working as it should, Full disc, Full depth or 34Cm on a penny. Thanks for the help.Originally posted by nonkapo View PostComment
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faulty not faulty my simplest tester gives clear picture. http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showt...parator-testerOriginally posted by Tibuck19 View PostComment
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Glad it works for you. I know it sound as advertising but follow KT315 advice. Whether you use his device or another, find a way to check the opamps are performing as per the specs. Or if you have another project with the same component, swap. I'm preparing for IDX and looking for step by step guide, so may need your help soon too;-).Originally posted by Tibuck19 View PostComment
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you are opulently right KT! I should of gotten on of these board from you when I bought the coil tester, it would of been handy today for sure!Originally posted by kt315 View PostComment
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I have yet to find a step by step for the IDX , ill be happy to help anyway I can, limited as my help is lol. This week I get the VID working on it! One thing, be mindful of the speaker , If you can, use a 32ohm speaker, I had to replace the MPSA13 and its paired npn transistor, they both got hot and one or both blow, im pretty sure it was the speaker that caused this.Originally posted by nonkapo View PostComment
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I have an 50 ohm specially for this. Got few from Bulgaria when vacation (half euro each from here https://panda-bg.com/en/product/Mylar-Speaker-OD50-mm-0-50W-50-ohm-METAL/410423/ ). Two already fixed on the Cuda and Surf. Third one waiting. Components all from trusted seller(Farnell). Just need some accurate resistors.Comment
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I have a 50oh on hand and tried it! Its not the best, sound is low almost muffled if that makes sense, Seeing the IDX was back to perfect working order, I went back and tried a few different speakers, from 150ohm all the way back down to another 8 ohm I had, To be honest, I think I was wrong before when I said the 32Ohm was what you needed, because, now it seems to be giving me the best sound, Little too loud but very very clear, Both MPSA and 3904 are not getting warm at all! Also I have been switching all the ic to try to find the best results, they setup now, gives me 42CM on a copper Canadian and US penny, on two different 10inch CC coils, One Don made and the other is a Whites Bluemax 256, I had to change the GB pot to a Multiturn 50K but it seems to GB at 26K, I also have a 7.5inch (or it could be 8 inch) Whites CC coil it hits the coppers at 30CM! I know its only Air test, But I say that rather impressive, Comparing to the TGSL with a 10 inch coil, Max I ever got was 28 CM with the pennies!Originally posted by nonkapo View PostComment
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Somewhere in the IDX thread someone was recommending type of coils for best results, but must search where. That was the reason why i get the board. Additionally the VDI option.Comment
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I believe it is the Bluemax 950 coil, there another one, but off hand, I can not remember what it is , I think it was a fisher coil or something like that.Originally posted by nonkapo View PostComment
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Got it. Was recommended by Ivconic, post 37, 39,40 of IDX-PRO+VDI thread:
https://www.colonialmetaldetectors.c...MetalDetectorsComment
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It might be common knowledge in the electronics world, However, I have always used standard Dip sockets (AKA el cheapo's) while swapping ic to find the best performance I notice a decrease,when I pulled a ic out and put it back in, If I had not known how the detector was acting before and after, I would of thought there a other problem, after replacing all those Dip sockets for better Dip strips, Everything went back to normal and a little better! Just something to keep in mind, From now on all I will be using is better ones.Originally posted by nonkapo View Post
Photo : top Cheap sockets, Bottom better Dip strips.
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Yes, I like better sockets for the same reason.
The bottom ones in your photo are 'machined pins' and available in DIP sockets.
A bit more expensive but well worth not having trouble later.
Two single strips is a nice way to do the DIP sockets.
Just insert a DIP chip to ensure the two rows stay aligned when soldering into the PCB.Comment
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Yes indeed, seen the Dip 2 row versions, they are a little more expensive as you say, but if you figure the gain of eliminating problems, and total cost of a DIY detector! they are still a very sound investment, For the single rows I have now, I was thinking of using the cut resistor leads and giving the two right angle bends to act as alignment jumpers while soldering , that way I wont accidently heat the icOriginally posted by waltr View PostComment
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I hate to have to ask for help yet again, however, I have no clue what to try next, My IDX was working great, hitting 42CM on air test with a 10 inch coil, Detecting with it was fun and getting good depth, digging out quarters 10 inches deep. Around the end of summer, i notice the detector was not performing and was also getting more noisy, than it used to be. Now the max it is getting on air test is 34Cm, I replaced the Caps around the NE5534 the 5534 itself, i bought replacements for all the ic's. For the 347 i got a LF347n, Lf347bn and a LMC6484ain(LMC6484 reduced depth by half), Replacing it has made the idx quite again however still no change in depth, I also replaced all the 393 with 393pe4's no change, i also replaced those with lm2903p's Again no change, i replaced all the 358's with lm358n and i tried lm358an. I have 3 coils and all three coils are showing the same amount of depth lost, between 5 to 8 Cm. is it a TX problem or an RX? i also replace every transistor and diode. i would appreciate any clue as what i can do next to being this detector back to how it was.Comment
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